Showing posts with label India. Show all posts
Showing posts with label India. Show all posts

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Photos of the Taj Mahal

Taj Mahal


For my reflections on the Taj Mahal, see my previous post.

Photos of Delhi

I'm gradually making my way through my hundreds of photos of India. Here are photos from our two days of sight-seeing in Delhi, the city where Nikhil grew up. To read my reflections on Delhi, see my previous post dated 6 Sept. '09.

Delhi

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Mehendi

Here is another one of Nikhil's albums that documents the mehendi (henna) that Nithya (Nikhil's sister) and I had done on our hands on a Sunday afternoon at the beauty parlor. This is traditionally done in the north prior to a wedding, so you can imagine that as I was traveling around India I got a few comments, mostly from nice ladies at airports wondering if I was just married.

The guy who applied the mehendi did so using a paper cone like you'd use to frost a cake. He was seated, as was I, and bent over my arm and carefully created his own design in "Arabic" style on both my hands and in traditional Indian style on Nithya's. It took at least 30 - 60 min per arm.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Delhi

We recently spent two days in Delhi (and two in Agra). I liked Delhi. It also felt more familiar, more similar to my expectations for India's large cities based on my own experiences in Mexico City and Santiago, Chile.

It was horribly hot and humid while we were in Delhi, having just rained a great deal the day before we arrived. We were surprised to find that it was even more humid than Chennai, which is not generally the case. Delhi feels better organized and planned to me than Chennai (which doesn't feel at all planned in the city planning sense). It also feels more cosmopolitan. Delhi has lots of trees, lots of apartment blocks (there seem to be more than in Chennai and there are planned neighborhoods of huge apartment blocks with all the necessary staples located at close distance). The city has some stately boulevards, particularly around the embassies, India Gate, and the presidential palace and parliament building, that definitely give it the feeling of being a capital city. Shopping malls seem to be creeping up everywhere around and on the outskirts of the city. e.g., on the way to Agra we must have seen at least 5-6 new malls on the same road within a few short kilometers of each other, just outside Delhi.

Delhi has plenty of sites of historical interest. My favorite spots were the Qutub Minar, a tall brick and sandstone tower from the days of Mogul rule, and the "Lotus Temple". This is the local name for the Baha'i House of Worship -- here called the "Lotus Temple" for its architecture that resembles a lotus flower. An interesting fact is that the Baha'i temple gets even more visits a year than the infamous Taj Mahal. Located in a very busy neighborhood of the city, it is situated on a large and peaceful campus. Volunteers help ensure quiet inside the sanctuary itself. Let me tell you after spending two weeks in India -- quiet is a precious commodity here (in fact, this is the only place I found in India so far that is truly quiet). Like each of the Baha'i houses of worship, it is designed with nine sides. There are 9 pools that surround the temple that act as natural air conditioners, and lots of layers of nine radiating down from the lotus petaled roof.

We visited with some old family friends from the days when Nikhil's family lived in Delhi, saw where they used to live (for Nikhil from 6th grade through college), went to Nikhil's school and university, saw India Gate, Rashtrapathi Bhavan (the presidential palace), Connaught Place (a neighborhood with lots of shops and restaurants), Dilli Haat (a fabulous open air handicraft market that makes me think of Mexico City's Ciudadela), met up with our dear friend Neha, dined in Kahn Market...

But, as with each place on this planet, there are positives and negatives. Delhi has terrible traffic, certainly worse than Chennai. I also saw more stray dogs, more cows on the roads (heart breakingly often eating from huge piles of trash), more haze and pollution. Spending more time in touristy areas, we were confronted by more beggars and poverty... In particular, the image of a baby that was lying butt naked on the sidewalk as her father/some other man exploited her for the sake of panhandling in busy Connaught Place has been sharply burned into my memory. Countries like this one surely have good laws to protect children, but lack the infrastructure at present to enforce such laws.

All in all, it felt like a truly whirlwind trip so I didn't really get firmly grounded in this city, but I can easily imagine future visits to Delhi.

Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal is, as implied by its status as one of the wonders of the world, quite wonderful. No photo can do it justice. The first thing that struck me is that it is quite a bit larger than I would have imagined. It also has an ethereal quality-- standing there looking at it for the first time, I found it hard to accept that that this place was actually real. When you get up close, the detail work of all the embossing and engraving, the calligraphy, is quite amazing.

I was fascinated by the number of optical illusions: e.g., the calligraphy of the Koran around the main entrance, the size of the lettering increases as it goes higher up from the ground so that the size appears from the ground to be the same. Other lines making 90 angles play tricks on the eye as they creep up the side of the building, giving the appearance of a column tapering outward...

The perfect symmetry of the architecture is also incredible, particularly when you think that the Taj was built in the middle of the 17th century with old fashioned hand tools and all the drafts by hand. Everything aligns - the center line of all the buildings, not to mention each of the engravings and reliefs on each side of the door (all are mirror opposites of one another). At the time it was built obviously there was nothing like cranes so they used big piles of mud to move things around. Imagine seeing a big pile of mud for years as it was being built only to have it cleaned away when it was done and to behold this edifice for the first time!

In terms of history, the Taj was built by Shah Jahan, emperor during the Mughul empire's period of greatest prosperity, as a mausoleum for his most beloved of three wives, Mumtaz Mahal, who died in childbirth of their fourteenth child. According to our tour guide, before she died she asked three things of him: 1) that he raise their children with loving affection and not scold them, 2) that he not remarry again (he already had the two other wives), and 3) that he build an unparalleled monument on her grave as a testament to the world of their love. Quite the lasting testament.

The Taj used to be filled with gems embedded in the walls that have been pillaged over the years. Incredible as it is now, I can only imagine how breathtaking it must have been in its full glory.

If you ever get to India, I highly recommend visiting the Taj. There are lots of other historical monuments of interest (I also particularly liked the Agra Fort), though the city itself is not well maintained. Nonetheless, the Taj makes a trip to Agra more than worth your while.

Friday, September 4, 2009

Vocab Lesson

Here are just a few Indian English expressions that have caught my attention during this visit. I'll put the Indian expression first, followed by the American translation.

1. fly over = overpass
2. flying kiss = this is when you blow a kiss
3. speed breakers = speed bumps
4. anticlockwise = counterclockwise
5. bunking school = ditching school/class

Monday, August 31, 2009

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Nikhil's Photos of Our Sari Shopping

While I was mostly engrossed in the act of sari shopping, fortunately Nikhil had his camera at the ready to document the occasion.

Check out his photos: http://shadows.smugmug.com/Family/Sari-shopping/9454563_F4kde#P-1-20

(FYI, he also posted photos of the banana tree felling and will be posting others from our trip, so keep checking http://shadows.smugmug.com/)

Marina Beach

Last night we went to Marina Beach here in Chennai. It has the fame of being the widest beach in all of Asia, if not the world (I can't verify this claim). It is remarkably wide -- 437 meters at the widest stretch (almost half a kilometer). Apparently during the tsunami the waves covered the entire width of the beach and reached to the roads beyond, which is quite impressive to imagine when you're standing on that huge stretch of sand.

This Indian beach is quite unlike anywhere else I've ever been. Not only do you have people walking up and down the beach selling mostly food (this makes me think of Mexico), you also have food stalls set up on the beach. Nikhil's family was talking about how important food is in India, how the first question you'll get when you tell someone you've just been to Marina Beach is whether you ate one of these deep fried chilies they sell there. We did order some, though after one deep fried plantain I realized I didn't really want anything else deep fried. We also had ice cream.

Going to the beach here is much less a serene experience as a fascinating people watching experience. In addition to the food vendors you have people flying and selling kites, mini merry-go-rounds and feris wheels (hand cranked!) for the kiddies, these walls of balloons that you can shoot. We saw some teenage boys who were doing remarkable acrobatics (Nikhil got some great photos). If it weren't so hot in this city, I could easily imagine spending an entire day at the beach. One more thing -- beaches here are pretty dirty. With all these food vendors, many people don't bother to pack their trash. We also actually saw a man flinging bags of trash into the ocean. This made me upset. I was going to go chase after the bags but Nikhil insisted that he do it himself (probably for fear of the reaction it could create if a foreign woman were to do this instead).

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Off to Delhi

Tonight we're off to Delhi and Agra to do some proper sight seeing. We'll see the Baha'i Temple ("Lotus Temple"), India Gate, Nikhil's old school and university, many more things in Delhi and, in Agra, of course, the Taj Mahal!

I'm unlikely to have internet access while I'm there, but I'm sure I'll have lots more photos and things to say upon my return. We get back to Chennai on Thur. night (we're taking a plane -- takes about 2 hours to get to Delhi from here).

Map of India, FYI

Photos from our Welcome Party

Here are some photos that Nikhil's dad took on our first day here when we had a big gathering at their home to welcome me to India. Grandparents, aunts, uncles, cousins, and a few extended relatives--16 people--came to greet us. Nikhil's mom made some tasty treats and everyone received me with a warmth that was far more than I could have hoped for. Enjoy!

Thursday, August 27, 2009

Saris and Sari Shopping

Today we went to a huge sari shop at which I was bought another 3 saris.

Let me explain that sari shops can be multiple floors of multiple rooms, all with walls lined with neatly stacked saris in a plethora of colors that's hard to imagine unless you've ever been to one. Saris come in all kinds of materials. This shop we went to today was organized with signs throughout the store above the wall shelves stating 3 things: 1) a cost range for the saris in that section, 2) the material of the saris in that section (e.g., silk, crepe, cotton...) 3) the region of origin of the style of the sari. One goes up to a long table and a sales clerk commences to pull out sari after sari and unfold them before you. He (so far it seems to always be a he) unveils the inside, which often has fancy patterns in contrasting colors, and carefully folds it up and throws it over your shoulder for you to "try on". I'm probably grossly simplifying the explanation.

Today I learned that the anatomy of saris are is more complex than I'd realized (not to mention the complication of how one is to wrap them). There are two main pieces: one large piece of fabric that gets folded into a pleated skirt and then the rest sort of wrapped around you, up and over one shoulder, and then there's a short top that goes under that, which is pretty tight fitting. Sometimes the fabric for the top comes with the main sari fabric. Other times (when the top material isn't included) one must elect a desired color of fabric for the top.
Yet there's all this other fabric one must buy... fabric for the "fall" -- a strip of material that goes on the inside of the bottom part of the skirt of the sari to give it weight so that the pleats fall properly... patterned material if you want to have a border/accents stitched onto the top that a tailor will make for you... fabric for a separate cotton underskirt... fabric to line the top (at least if the top material is made of silk). Rather complicated indeed.

Lights and Light Switches

I've been surprised that most houses here have florescent lighting -- the long tubes. I suppose this is probably the most energy efficient, yet somehow it feels more suited to say an elementary school classroom.

Also, lights here switch the opposite way - down is "on" and up is "off".

Finally, the placement of light switch plates to me feel non-intuitive. Here light switch panels -- at least at Nikhil's parents house -- are placed way up high on a wall. This makes them hard for me to find in the dark. For each room they typically contain multiple switches, usually because there's also an overhead fan or two, and also the switches turn on any power outlets as well. The order of these is often not logical to me. Finally, switch plates are often placed on the wall outside of say the bathroom (though this is common in Latin America and Europe and thus wasn't surprising to me).

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Manners Lessons 5 & 6

Lesson 5:
Books should not be placed near one's shoes. Books represent knowledge and should be treated with an air of sanctity.

Lesson 6:
After eating dinner with one's hands, one should NOT wash one's hands in the same sink where one washes dishes. This, from an orthodox perspective, is because the hand is now considered unclean In most Tamil homes there seems to be a separate sink especially designated for the hand washing purpose.
Interesting, in really orthodox homes (like that of one of Nikhil's grandparents) one shouldn't even mix the dirty plates with the serving dishes in the wash basin.

News Perspective

I was impressed yesterday, in reading The New Indian Express newspaper, to see two awareness raising articles, one titled "Hell away from home" with a subheading saying "Shame on Us", which was about child labor in India. The other was called "Sacked down with cruelty", was about the "demonic yet arresting" practice of loading down oxen that were "profusely salivating and frothing". Though sensational, this article was meant to raise awareness about treatment of oxen, especially during the hot summer. In summers oxen should not be used to pull carts between 11am and 4pm. But this rule is seldom enforced." The perspective is one of accepting collective blame, which doesn't seem to be the tone of most American newspapers.

Jasmine

In the summertime here ladies where strings of jasmine flowers in their hair. It's a pretty sight. When worn at the base of the head, I am told by Amma (Nikhil's mom), it produces a cooling effect. This I have yet to confirm, but it sure does smell nice!

Regarding Sari Shops

I received a good question via email yesterday that I thought I'd post here for the benefit of other non-Indians:

Q: Is a "sari shop" a place where you buy material and they sew it together for you... or is it pretty much "good-to-go" at purchase?

A: As far as I can tell, the sari shop is where you buy the long piece of fabric that wraps around your body. This part is ready made. Some saris come with an additional piece of fabric for the top. It seems that sometimes you may have to buy this other piece of fabric separately. Next you take the top material to a different shop (I haven't been to one of these yet) where they take your measurements and make custom stitch a top for you. Apparently tops also come ready made.

These are my conclusions based on my experience at one 5 story sari shop, which apparently bars nothing in size compared to some places... it may be that some sari shops also sell the ready made tops.

Indian ladies, please comment and correct any mistaken conclusions I'm making here.

Table Manners

1. One eats only with the right hand (at least here in the south of India). This much I knew. I am discovering that it is quite difficult for me to break a piece of naan, a roti or chapati with one hand.

2. One must pass dishes to others only with the left hand. This has to do with the first point. With respect to passing, if you err in this regard, people (particularly of an older generation) will consider the dish to now be unclean and will not eat it. Fortunately Appa (Nikhil's dad - the word for dad in Tamil) managed to steer me away from making this mistake yesterday morning when I offered to clear the table at his parents' house. They take their breakfast later and would probably not have eaten it.

3. Similarly to #2, one must dish out food with one's left hand.

Someone was telling me yesterday that when a close family friend moved from Delhi to Chennai, she had to train herself by putting her right hand behind her back.

4. Always take more than one helping. A visitor can never eat enough here and love seems to be expressed through cooking. Prashant gave me good advice before coming in this regard: eat slowly and always have food in your mouth.

Last night Nikhil's grandpa told me that "a way to an Indian man's heart is through his stomach". Never mind that this saying probably applies to many other cultural contexts.

Sensory Overload

Two words so far seem to sum up my experience in India: sensory overload. I had been pre-warned by friends who had been here that this would be the case. I definitely agree with this summation base on my so far limited experience.

Sight: Colors of saris are arresting, like eye candy to me (going into a sari shop makes me as giddy from the sensory perspective as going into a good yarn shop). My eyes are still overwhelmed every time I step onto a street here - the order to the chaos in the streets, the poverty, the trash...

Smell: diesel fumes, body odor, jasmine, strong spices... India seems to have my nose constantly twitching (although one starts to adapt after a couple of days)

Hearing: Chennai and Mumbai both hum at a volume that is much greater than any western country I've been to, but which strikes on the familiar for having lived in Latin America. There's a constant buzz from the streets below that includes dogs barking, people honking (will try to give a more detailed description later), particularly where Nikhil's parents live (being in the heart of Chennai). What strikes me most is the volume at which people speak. They must compete with ceiling fans and air conditioners, which are constantly on. My experience thus far has been that any time you get a number of Indians into a room, their volume escalates. I will write more on this aspect of social interaction later.

Taste: Indian food, as all who have tried it will know, is incredibly spiced. Lots of salt (it would be interesting to study the incidence of heart disease in India in relation to its cuisine), a riot of other flavors. All sweets are far too sweet for my palette. Most vegetables are thoroughly if not overly cooked (probably arising from sanitary concerns initially) from the Californian perspective (which, mind you, thrives on fresh produce). Many dishes are deeply and heavily fried.

Feel I will have to contemplate.