We recently spent two days in Delhi (and two in Agra). I liked Delhi. It also felt more familiar, more similar to my expectations for India's large cities based on my own experiences in Mexico City and Santiago, Chile.
It was horribly hot and humid while we were in Delhi, having just rained a great deal the day before we arrived. We were surprised to find that it was even more humid than Chennai, which is not generally the case. Delhi feels better organized and planned to me than Chennai (which doesn't feel at all planned in the city planning sense). It also feels more cosmopolitan. Delhi has lots of trees, lots of apartment blocks (there seem to be more than in Chennai and there are planned neighborhoods of huge apartment blocks with all the necessary staples located at close distance). The city has some stately boulevards, particularly around the embassies, India Gate, and the presidential palace and parliament building, that definitely give it the feeling of being a capital city. Shopping malls seem to be creeping up everywhere around and on the outskirts of the city. e.g., on the way to Agra we must have seen at least 5-6 new malls on the same road within a few short kilometers of each other, just outside Delhi.
Delhi has plenty of sites of historical interest. My favorite spots were the
Qutub Minar, a tall brick and sandstone tower from the days of Mogul rule, and the "Lotus Temple". This is the local name for the
Baha'i House of Worship -- here called the "Lotus Temple" for its
architecture that resembles a lotus flower. An interesting fact is that the Baha'i temple gets even more visits a year than the infamous Taj Mahal. Located in a very busy neighborhood of the city, it is situated on a large and peaceful campus. Volunteers help ensure quiet inside the sanctuary itself. Let me tell you after spending two weeks in India -- quiet is a precious commodity here (in fact, this is the only place I found in India so far that is truly quiet). Like each of the Baha'i houses of worship, it is designed with nine sides. There are 9 pools that surround the temple that act as natural air conditioners, and lots of layers of nine radiating down from the lotus petaled roof.
We visited with some old family friends from the days when Nikhil's family lived in Delhi, saw where they used to live (for Nikhil from 6th grade through college), went to Nikhil's school and university, saw
India Gate,
Rashtrapathi Bhavan (the presidential palace), Connaught Place (a neighborhood with lots of shops and restaurants), Dilli Haat (a fabulous open air handicraft market that makes me think of Mexico City's Ciudadela), met up with our dear friend Neha, dined in Kahn Market...
But, as with each place on this planet, there are positives and negatives. Delhi has terrible traffic, certainly worse than Chennai. I also saw more stray dogs, more cows on the roads (heart breakingly often eating from huge piles of trash), more haze and pollution. Spending more time in touristy areas, we were confronted by more beggars and poverty... In particular, the image of a baby that was lying butt naked on the sidewalk as her father/some other man exploited her for the sake of panhandling in busy Connaught Place has been sharply burned into my memory. Countries like this one surely have good laws to protect children, but lack the infrastructure at present to enforce such laws.
All in all, it felt like a truly whirlwind trip so I didn't really get firmly grounded in this city, but I can easily imagine future visits to Delhi.